Surfing is an ancient tradition of the Polynesians. The chiefs were the best surfers in the tribes, and the ones using the best surf boards made from the best timber. The ruling class dominated the best beaches and boards, the general class was not allowed inside their beach. However by perfecting their surfing skills, they could earn the privilege of ascending the upper class.
The earliest sighting of surfing by the Europeans was in 1767, by the crew of Dolphin in Tahiti. Later on, after Captain James Cook’s death in 1779, Second Lieutenant James King noted in Captain Cook’s log the art of surfing.
The sport of surfing is the life of the Polynesian, just like any other sport in today’s western world. It had influences on the society, religion and mythology of Polynesia. The chiefs demonstrated their surfing technics as a symbol of their reputation.